Marc's Public Blog - Clubbing and Trance


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Ok, so I like electronic dance music, more specifically Trance. When I started in the 1990's, the US was a bit behind in that department.
Still, with San Francisco and San Jose nearby, I've had some opportunities to see some great EDM/Trance DJs. Back in the early 2000's, they sadly played club music in the US that was nowhere close to the hits they had composed and were known for, but over the years, as Trance started becoming more popular, those DJs finally started playing their good tunes in the US too, and maybe from 2004 on, it's only been getting better.
Popsicle Halloween 2004 was really the beginning of great music parties in the San Francisco Area, and thankfully things have gotten even better since then

As a matter of fact, after another 10 years (2015 and beyond) the good news is that Trance has grown quite a following in the US, and places like the SF Bay Area, and while Trance has been declared dead a few times in the last 10 years, it's still going strong here.
Trance Family SF is definitely strong in the area, we've been getting more big trance parties every year, including many top DJs that come visit us what feels like every other week now (as of 2018-2019), and through those events, I made many friends in Trance Family SF. Thanks to you all.

Over those years, I got the chance to meet a few of my favourite DJs, including Armin more than once, and my last hobby has been to work on lights for my shirt and pants (version 3) and (version 4)



You can find all the pictures here

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π 2025-03-07 01:01 in Arduino, Clubbing, Electronics, Festivals
History of the LED outfit:
  • Version 3: LED Pants and Shirt Programmed With Arduino on ESP8266
  • Version 4: EDM Festival and Burning Man LED Pants and Shirt v4 on ESP32 with RGBPanels and SmartMatrix::GFX
  • Version 5: LED Pants and Shirt v5 on ESP32 and Raspberry Pi with P2 RGBPanels and Wifi
  • Version 5.5: Party LED Outfit Flexible P15 LED Strings, LED Fanny Pack, Rez Inspired LED Goggles, LED Laces and LED Shoes
  • Version 6: Party LED Outfit Self Contained Power System on LED Panels
  • Version 7: Party LED Outfit USB Powerbanks Powered Flexible LED Panels, LED Hat, and LED Shoelaces
  • And for shits and giggles, I wrote this full article on the why and evolution of my LED outfit
  • Prototype of new version:


    The previous v6 was an attempt at simplyfying v5 by integrating the batteries directly to the back of the panels. In the case of Lipo batteries that I cannot let run flat or they'll be damaged forever, and need for extra wiring for the balance connector, it was simpler to attach everything to the back of the panels, but it made the panels quite heavy and more bulky looking.
    That outfit served me well, but outside of bulk and weight, one issue was getting the lipo batteries through airports. They are totally legal and allowed, but they had to be removed from the outfit every time I flew, which was a pain in unwiring/re-wiring, but even then, I would get stopped more than half the time I went through Xray while they got a supervisor to confirm that yes indeed the batteries were fine. A few times, I got less educated people who reacted in lesser ways, and called more people, a few times causing delays of 30mn or more. To be more specific:

  • I met the bomb specialist of the day at SFO airport, twice. Very nice guy both times, for 30mn+ delay
  • In Thailand my first trip was fine, but my last flight of the 2nd trip, I got 12 people including the army asking me why would I fly with this?
  • more than once, I was told my lipo batteries had a simliar shape to C4 explosives, which I guess is true, but not my fault. I have learned however that once people say "it looks like [something scary]", even if they agree it's not, I have still lost
  • Another time in France, I had to argue with the police who were mostly being dicks that day and told me I had too many batteries because I could only carry as many as I would need in flight (which was entirely untrue and made up, but they had the guns)
  • The batteries are in green below, they showed up pretty reliably on Xrays and the whole thing would get flagged and then they would have to look at them and the wires, and often were not super happy:


    So, I ended up making a removable battery pack that was wired correctly, and putting it the right way was tricky, so set it up to be correct and in one piece that could be removed and re-added with less work for each flight:


    But it didn't take long to find out that even carrying the batteries separately that way still made TSA unhappy at times, and unless I unplugged absolutely everything and rebuild the whole thing every time, they would not be very happy and that was a pain for me to take apart and rebuild every single time. They still occasionally said it looked like C-4.

    I wasn't being a contratrian for fun, and see how many world TSAs I could win an argument with, I just didn't really have many other options, I did need those big batteries because my outfit does need lots of power, and 5V USB battery packs simply do not output enough amps.

    tried with USB packs
    tried with USB packs

    it was not fun, I had to segment power use in different busses plugged into different ports of battery packs, very cumbersome and the first tone to die could shut down everything
    it was not fun, I had to segment power use in different busses plugged into different ports of battery packs, very cumbersome and the first tone to die could shut down everything

    But after multiple years (and to be fair, it was many flights and most were fine, but the 5-10% that were not, were _not_ fun), technology finally evolved into whas that gave me better options: using less scary looking USB powerbanks that were finally able to output enough watts to power my panels without dipping power enough to cause reboots and crashes from the CPUs.

    so I built a new system with dual 20V input (each one is sufficient on its own)
    so I built a new system with dual 20V input (each one is sufficient on its own)

    I have 2 USB-PD selector boards that output into a diode to avoid backfeed, and this goes into a DC-DC converter that takes the 20V down to 5V at up to 20A although probably only 5A max is really needed
    I have 2 USB-PD selector boards that output into a diode to avoid backfeed, and this goes into a DC-DC converter that takes the 20V down to 5V at up to 20A although probably only 5A max is really needed

    It of course runs fine from a single battery:


    At the same time, I made a big upgrade on the panel side by using flexible PCB panels that are differnetly thinner. At the same time I switched to RPI0 2W which is slightly more powerful than an RPI3a while being much smaller:


    Now the whole thing looks nicer and lighter:


    I did switch the big ESP32 to a smaller smaller ESP32 C3 (2 shown in this picture), which can still output to an LED strip if I really want/need. I also tried to switch to a smaller electrodragon passive-3 board that was custom designed to fit the RPI0 2W. It doesn't have the room for the level shifters, but turns out for an ABCDE panel, the passive board worked just as well (top on the picture vs the bigger red one in the middle):


    The old setup had 300Wh of battery capacity, and that was real capacity, no BS. I measured it to give me a bit over 18H of runtime, which was very nice indeed, and helpful for places like tomorrowland where I had to camp and go 3 nights without ability to recharge.

    This new setup differs a good amount because:

  • the panels are similar resolution and size, but they are a new design with flex PCB panels that are much thinner
  • they are still not as thin as LEDs inside the clothing, but in order to make it lighter and thinner, the batteries were moved back out
  • at the time of my original design, USB batteries were just not really on par with what I needed. My setup does use 5V, but it needs a lot more amps than any battery pack can take, and last I tried, it required an awkward setup where I used 3 different USB ports. But 3 years later, there are finally USB battery packs that can output 100W on a single port as 20V/5A via USB-PD, and that is more than plenty to run the panels as well as than run a Raspberry Pi without the voltage dipping and causing a reboot.
  • the new battery packs, while sold as almost 100Wh, all deliver around 75Wh of real power, which unfortunately is only good enough for 5.5h of runtime per battery. The loss of capacity is due both marketing lies, and the capacity that is given is the ideal capacity of the lithium batteries inside the USB pack, but that power has to be up-converted to 20V and losses happen in that process. Later I confirmed that up-converting to 15V was sufficient, so that helped a little bit. On the plus side, 11H is enough for most uses, and worst case I can hot swap an empty battery without even shutting down/rebooting the system
  • I also changed the rPI3a for a smaller rPi0 2w and a smaller ESP32 replaced with ESP32 S3. The rPi+ESP used 28% of the power, while the 6 panels used 72% of the power. The smaller Rip0 2w + ESP32 S3 probably takes probably just a bit less power, but it's a small enough percentage that I didn't go measure it.

  • End result

    Same on youtube:

    But of course, nothing can be simple, this new design brought some new issues:

    After using it the first time at ASOT NL 2025 the wooden frame got detached in no time, failure of the 2.5mm screws

    very early version without clips on both sides
    very early version without clips on both sides

    just a bit of tape to hold things together, clips on sides and top
    just a bit of tape to hold things together, clips on sides and top

    it was built until the flight and I didn't have time to add a protective frame
    it was built until the flight and I didn't have time to add a protective frame

    the panels were so cheaply made that the screws receptacles came unglued
    the panels were so cheaply made that the screws receptacles came unglued

    Another issue I didn't like with these ABCDE panels is that the screws were 2.5mm instead of 3mm for unknown reasons and it was hard to attach to something that small.

    Switching to a different 128x64 P2 Flex Panel vendor, but ending up with ABC panels that barely worked with rpi-rgb-panel

    The ABC panels had 3mm screws, which was better, but I found out even those things also popped out. I had to carefully re-glue them in without leaking glue on the panel pixels:


    Sadly those ABC panels had different chips that required huge gpio slowdowns or suffered from noise and display issues:



    new chips
    new chips

    It took a few weeks, and very kind help from board707 and multiple issues to make a new line addressing shift register pusher that was faster and didn't have the noise/corruption issue:

  • https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix/issues/1725#issuecomment-2757492829
  • https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix/issues/1773
  • https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix/issues/1774
  • https://github.com/hzeller/rpi-rgb-led-matrix/issues/1788 where I found subtle timing issues. between chips, kernel and compilation options causing -led-slowdown-gpio to have to be changed between 1 and 2 to get a stable output
  • while doing all this, I did confirm that the smaller electrodragon passive-3 board does pick up more noise and isn't able to drive as fast as the bigger active-3 board
  • once I figured all that out, finally got the ABC panels to work almost as fast as ABCDE and now have a nice screet/pixel protector
    once I figured all that out, finally got the ABC panels to work almost as fast as ABCDE and now have a nice screet/pixel protector

    USB powerbank failures

    It didn't take long before I found out that many powerbanks do very badly at outputting 20V long term, and some of their ports half die and only do 5V after a while, which is not enough for me:


    It took some tracking down to catch real time failures:

    Flexible PCB solder point failures

    This is now the biggest and unsolved issue with my new setup. Anything that moves and flexes, fails, and sure enough the same law applies here:

    flexing the PCB can cause any of those points to fail, causing the above
    flexing the PCB can cause any of those points to fail, causing the above

    and they fail in different ways :(
    and they fail in different ways :(



    Oh no, it looks terrible when it fails in the wrong place
    Oh no, it looks terrible when it fails in the wrong place

    Easier Replacing of Panels

    I wish I could say I have a great solution to those panels that fail due to flexing and solder point failures: 5165*|2 different failures 5165*|by hand flexing the panel, it brings the connection back, but it's not a solution 5164*|my new design makes swappping panels faster, and not requiring a soldering iron

    This is not a great long term solution, but I have no better idea for now outside of going back to bigger and bulkier non flexible panels.

    New Pants

    I redesigned the pant straps to use smaller black loops first glued and then sown into the pants:


    looks more tidy
    looks more tidy

    end result
    end result

    New LED Hats

    this was my old Dreamstate Hat, it looks cool but it's heavy
    this was my old Dreamstate Hat, it looks cool but it's heavy

    so I made new ones that are much lighter
    so I made new ones that are much lighter

    funny thing is the very first time I flew with the new hats, I was detained because of them :)
    funny thing is the very first time I flew with the new hats, I was detained because of them :)

    Upgraded LED Shoes with bright Shoelaces

    I got new brighter shoelaces but the batteries didnt even last a day
    I got new brighter shoelaces but the batteries didnt even last a day

    So I made a connector to plug into the shoe's bigger batteries I upgraded
    So I made a connector to plug into the shoe's bigger batteries I upgraded

    End result:

    Extending battery life

    Originally I setup my battery packs to output 20V, which means the power is upconverted to 20V and then downconverted to 5V but with 10A (way more than needed), Trial and error showed that my battery packs do seem to output more energy when I lowered the voltage to 15V, and after modifying my code a little bit, I was able to make it run off 12V (the battery pack only outputs 3A at 12V, or 36W. Normally my code should not use 36W, I've measured it to use around 8W average, but in peak use situations it can draw more, and if the 5V voltage dips a bit too much as a result, the rPi will crash and reboot).

    I have a "few" battery packs, different sizes and weights, but the weight adds up:


    The good news is that I'm now able to use smaller packs that can still output 60Wh, but only up to 12V. The bigger packs can do 100W at 20V and output up to 75Wh on a good day, although most of mine often seem to do less (they are of course rated for 99Wh)


    in the process, I found out the Wh totalizer in these meters, is garbage and can't be trusted
    in the process, I found out the Wh totalizer in these meters, is garbage and can't be trusted

    nicer/bigger 100W capable pack (more than I need) with better totalizer
    nicer/bigger 100W capable pack (more than I need) with better totalizer

    new test at 15V instead of 20V (the red boards can be changed to ask any voltage) with diodes to prevent backfeed
    new test at 15V instead of 20V (the red boards can be changed to ask any voltage) with diodes to prevent backfeed

    measuring the loss between 15V input and 5V output
    measuring the loss between 15V input and 5V output

    trying again with 12V, we can also note the voltage drop at 1.4A
    trying again with 12V, we can also note the voltage drop at 1.4A

    some surprising results, some 75Wh packs emptied quicker than expected, only got 65Wh from thsi one
    some surprising results, some 75Wh packs emptied quicker than expected, only got 65Wh from thsi one

    a fun part of this exercise is figuring out if the Wh totalizers are even good
    a fun part of this exercise is figuring out if the Wh totalizers are even good

    Here are the results I got so far:

  • small 60Wh pack, pack #1: 49Wh, pack #2: 56Wh, 12V meter: 108Wh, 5V meter: 98Wh, 12h28 total, 7.8W avg (5v), 8.6W avg (12V)
  • big 75W pack (12V), pack #1: 63Wh, pack #2: 53Wh, 12V meter: 110Wh, 5V meter: 99Wh, 12h23 total, 7.8W avg (5v), 8.9W avg (12V)
  • big 75W pack (12V), pack #1: 63Wh, pack #2: 73Wh, 12V meter: 125Wh, 5V meter:114Wh, 14h30 total, 7.8W avg (5v), 8.5W avg (12V)
  • big 75W pack (20V), pack #1: 70Wh, pack #2: 68Wh, 20V meter: 120Wh, 5V meter:108Wh, 13h30 total, 8.0W avg (5v), 8.8W avg (20V)
  • So, what comes out of this is:

  • I'm getting a bit longer runtime by only using 12V intead of 20V and this allows using smaller battery packs that only do 12V
  • I'm pretty disappointed in those 100W/99Wh packs that seem to output as little as 55Wh at 12V
  • on the plus side I can now get 14.5h with the bigger battery packs, but I should be getting a lot more if they did output 75Wh
  • There is a 10% loss from down converting from 12V to 5V with my DC-DC converter, probably acceptable
  • The smaller packs seem to work almost as well for a much smaller size, their main downside is they don't charge nearly as fast (the 100W packs can charge in 1.5h at max speed given the proper power supply).

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